29th August - Nicholas Crane, at the beginning of his huge walk across the watershed of Europe, writes that Julius Caesar and his Roman Army probably had it right when they walked for three days and rested for one. He ignored the advice (to his regret) and so did I in Part One, but now I had learnt my lesson. So for my rest day, I went for a little 7 km walk around the Askyfou plateau (without a pack) and found my way up to the Turkish fort which dominates the skyline there.

30th August - The day dawned with a cloudless blue sky. I was lucky. The route starts with a gentle two km warm up across the Niato plateau before turning more vicious. The next phase is a very steep 700 meter climb up the north east ridge of Kastro. One of the pluses is that you are doing this in the relative cool of the morning - one of the minuses is that you will probably be carrying something like five litres of water.
Distance: 17.0 km
Time: 10 hrs. 5mins.
Mov av 2.5 km/hr
Height overnight: 1,913m.
Max. height: 2,060m.

The beach of Agios Pavlos is about 60 km from Rethymno and can be easily reached through an asphalt road.
In fact, Agios Pavlos is a small settlement on a beautiful, picturesque cove. Around and close to the beach there are some small hotels and taverns and right on the beach a beautiful cafe / bar.
West of the small settlement at a place known as Alatsogremni (Cliffs of salt) are the famous dunes of Agios Pavlos. Although dunes are not rare in the south coast of Crete, those are very impressive. High dunes that end in crystal clear, turquoise waters. A landscape of unique natural beauty that is worth seeing.
The scenery is even more imposing late in the afternoon, when the sun is setting and the sand gets a golden hue. It looks like an image coming from another world.

Between the small beach at Agios Pavlos and the Dunes we find the area of ​​Apoplystra with the unique rock formations. From the beach of Agios Pavlos climb a wooden staircase and you are in front of a unique spectacle. Rocks sculpted by salt water, in various shapes and wonderful colors.